Trish Hammond: I’m here today with Dr. Doug Grose, who is actually the gentleman who invented the ASAP skin care many many years ago. I’m going to have a talk about the changing landscape in the cosmeceutical and skin care industry at the moment.
Thank you so much for taking the time today.
Trish Hammond: Dr. Grose, can you tell us … I know you’re the President of the Australian College of…
Douglas: Cosmetic Physicians, correct.
Trish Hammond: Cosmetic Physicians. I just want to have a bit of a chat to you about the changing landscape in cosmeceuticals and what it means for the industry today.
Douglas: Well I think that what we’re seeing is that, as you know I’ve been involved with cosmeceuticals for a very long time via ASAP which started in sort of late 1999. What I’m seeing now is the recognition by the general public that skin care is not all fluff and puff in a pretty bottle – it’s actually got to do something for your skin. There’s been quite an explosion in companies providing cosmeceutical skincare products.
I think the fundamentals probably haven’t changed all that much, but some of the active ingredients that we use are changing. The fundamental principles are still pretty much the same as they were way back in 2000.
Trish Hammond: The most important thing when it comes to skincare is actually looking after your skin, and anti-ageing. The most important with anti-ageing is looking after your skin?
Douglas: Well, protecting your skin from the sun if you’re Australian.
Trish Hammond: Yeah.
Douglas: One of my favourite speeches is to say to people if you were stranded on a desert island and you’re only allowed to have one skincare product which one would you pick? If you didn’t say sunscreen you’ve got the wrong answer.
Trish Hammond: Okay.
Douglas: The most important anti-ageing product by far is sunscreen. Then after that I think the other one we want is the products which promote cellular renewal, so that’s where the Vitamin A products and the fruit acid products come into their own, because they help promote cell renewal, exfoliation, and renewal of the skin. They’re the big advances; the recognition that sunscreen should be used everyday. Again another speech I’m well known for making is that the slip, slop, slap campaign was great, except they didn’t say put it on every day. They just said when you go out in the sun, and if people think oh well I’m going for a walk down to the shops that’s not going out in the sun, yes it is. You’ve got to have sunscreen and a hat on basically all the time, particularly if you’re my sort of very fair complexion.
Trish Hammond: Even with myself. Basically, everyone in Australia should be using sunscreen everyday with a 30 –
Douglas: Well, 50 is the new higher standard. There are quite a few products which are cosmetic type products as versus your beach type product, which are perfectly acceptable for everyday use with a SPF 50.
One of the things we might talk about briefly if I may, because it’s a topic that I think is important, is that people often don’t understand what SPF stands for. People think it’s a percentage of how good the protection is. It’s got nothing to do with that. SPF actually measures how long you can stay out in the sun for without going red.
Trish Hammond: Right.
Douglas: That’s actually how it’s measured.
Trish Hammond: So 50 is …?
Douglas: 50 means that you can stay out in the sun literally 50 times longer before you go red. So it’s a duration of effect. That means if you put it on first thing in the morning, as a general principle it’s going to last all day.
Trish Hammond: Okay.
Douglas: But if you only use an SPF 8, it’s not going to last all day.
Trish Hammond: It’s not enough.
Douglas: Exactly. So it’s time, it’s not effectiveness, it’s time.
Trish Hammond: There’s some great products on the market now where it’s got a tinted moisturiser and it’s got a 30 + that I’ve seen.
Douglas: I always used to say, I was probably one of the early people who used to talk about this to my patients about the importance of sunscreen. I used to say to the ladies, “Do you put a moisturiser on in the morning?” They said, “Oh yes,” and I’d say, “Do you put a sunscreen on?” “No, why would I want to do that?” It’s like how about you get rid of the moisturiser and you put the sunscreen on, because it will moisturise your skin just as well. Sunscreen creams are basically oil and water with the sunscreens mixed in with them, and oil and water is what a moisturiser is. That’s what you need. The morning sunscreen makes perfect sense; it gives you moisturiser, it gives you base for putting cosmetics on, and it’s giving you sun protection.
Trish Hammond: Exactly. So no matter what you do, one of the most important things is the sun care factor in the base skincare that you’re using? Is that right?
Douglas: Absolutely. Don’t forget to your neck, décolletage, and the hands.
Trish Hammond: Yes. The first bits to age.
Douglas: Yes, absolutely. Neck’s the one that’s always the problem. It’s a very difficult area for us to rejuvenate as cosmetic doctors, and it’s one of the things that will often show. Décolletage particularly; I live on the Gold Coast as you know, and I’m driving along sometimes in the morning and there’s these gorgeous young ladies strutting themselves along the boardwalk without a hat on, and wearing a little tank top. I’m thinking, “I bet they haven’t got sunscreen on either.” In 20 years time, they’re going to say I wish I wore sunscreen.
Trish Hammond: That’s so true.
Thank you so much for your time today.
Douglas: It’s a pleasure.
Trish Hammond: If you’ve got any questions or you want to find out about a great range for you, drop us an email at firstname.lastname@example.org, or as well if you want to look up who’s a member of the Cosmetic Physicians College of Australia, just drop us an email as well.
Thank you so much.
Douglas: Thank you, thanks for having me.